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What modifications to the standard Maverick kit would be in order so it would handle Cyclone power. I plan on flying it in 1/2A classic gas.
Thanks
EdHeavier spars
Full X geodetics on the main wing panels
Carbon caps on the ribs
I would avoid plastic covering
Might as well carbon cap the stab
You probably won’t want to run the engine more than about 5.5 seconds
Joe Mollendorf flew a sock size Maverick with Cyclon at the last 2 NATS.
Its kinda fast.I’ve been flying a cyclon powered maverick for several years, it is really a kick once its tuned in. My mods were to put 3/32 wide strips of thin carbon in the four corners of the fuselage full length, the rear wing spar was doubled and web both the main spar and the doubled rear spar full length. definitely cover with tissue or tissue over mylar for the stiffness. The kit plans do not show enough incidence, mine required about 3/32 ” under the TE of the stab. About a degree and a half of left thrust and down thrust was built in. The plans show 1/8″ washin in the right main, you may want to reduce that a bit at the speeds you will be flying. All the rest is stock, no carbon in the wing or stab. This setup is more than competitive in AMA as well as classic. Have fun!
Finished up the Maverick with .049 Cyclone and pressure bladder. Made the modifications Glenn suggested to the wing. How should I proceed to break in the Cyclone? Pressure or suction? With my TD’s I would run a
couple of rich runs and they were ready to go, but I feel the Cyclone may be a bit more involved. Also I will heed the advice and trim the model far away from the crowd.
Thanks,
EdI you have a Galbreath prepared Cyclon, it is ready to go. If it came from somewhere else it may be too tight as Doug says they all are. E mail him to find out how to set it up or he will say send it to him and he’ll do it. Get a set of his directions too, to know how to handle the head shims, needle valve and glow plugs. Pressure is the only way one of those will run. Mine runs fine on 25% nitro and an APC 5.5×2 prop. Trim carefully, 3 sec runs and quick DT to start, very fast, a real blast to fly. Thermals Glenn
First, you MUST run it on pressure. It will not run on suction. Use either a 6×2 or the prefered 5.5 x 2.5 prop. We run all of ours ultimately on 50% and start with 25%. And, I do recommend flood off on the engine even tho many do run a pinch off. There is just a lot of run down with pinch off….
The engine as it comes is pretty good. I like to pull the thing apart and clean it all up, looking for chips and dirt and such. Note- to pull the head you MUST first remove the plug and then use the tool to remove the head. If you do not take out the plug you could damage it.
We start with 25% and run it on a smaller prop 5.5 x 2.5 cut to 5.35 x 2.5 and run it fast but slightly rich. If you burn a plug, put another washer under the head. This normally doesn’t happen tho. Then after a few runs (about 1 minute each and waiting for it to cool completely) start to lean it. When the engine will hold a needle setting, it is ready to go.
If the needle is very sensitive, add a washer. These are cheap and you should have some in your box. After it holds a setting, go to the higher nitro. Do the same, but normally it comes in pretty quick and you can tune it for the higher nitro content.
If it doesn’t hold a setting or will start, tune, and then die, there is a chance that the top of the piston is too big (by .0002″ or so). If you are skilled with a machinist’s stone, you can remove that. Or, as stated, get Doug involved. We found that we had two engines that showed this. After measuring the piston I discovered this, stoned the piston, and the engine was great after that.
Good luck with your new toy!!
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