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- This topic has 6 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 5 months ago by Timer Guy.
02/23/2006 at 7:10 pm #40440AnonymousInactive
Has anybody tried one of the “button” timers on a gas model?? Thinking of using one on my new Mini Pearl. 😀
Denny Dock02/23/2006 at 7:27 pm #42973Bill ShailorParticipant
Because of the rubber band to drive the timer and hold down the stab, there may not be enough tension to hold it down on a larger model.02/23/2006 at 11:30 pm #42974DAN BERRYParticipant
Gene Smith and Larry Kruse both use button timers. They have a little trip arm device to seperate stab line tension from actuator tension. I believe they published pictures and tech info in Flying Models. Within last 2-3 years. I’ve got a similar arrangement for my CLG and HLG. Getting ready to add it to P30 and Gollywock. No more fuses at the Dallas Tx field so us Luddites gotta use some modern stuff. I think button timers are closure dampeners from electronic devices. Wish the price was a bit more reasonable. I guess I could have taken up an inexpensive hobby. Like golf or bass fishing. Or curling.02/24/2006 at 12:23 am #42975DON MYERSParticipant
I think the same dynamics are involved in putting too much tension on the the timing device, whether its “button”, “badge” or “Tomy”. Its been addresed in past NFFs Digest By Markos (sp), and way back (for the Tomy) in SAM 35 for May 1992. Scheme is to intervene, with a couple of close spaced pegs, which the tension line is wrapped around twice, before going fwd to the timing device. Peter Michel author of the SAM 35 article sugested 15# monofilament which “takes a set, locking …. and taking all the strain”
Hope this sheds some light. Cheers; d-d02/25/2006 at 2:37 pm #42976Dean McGinnesParticipant
I have used these units for the last two years on all my small gas models. I classify as “small”, 1/2A and below.
For anything larger, I use the Texas Timers Max-III 2-function timer.
It is a real challenge to set these up for the reasons mentioned earlier. However, some sort of force multiplier allows one to have enough “pull” to keep the stab down, and yet not run the timer too fast. I have used both the “mousetrap” and a force multiplier arm to good effect.
In addition, I have finally gotten away from rubber bands. Steel springs are much more consistent. Hardware or other DIY stores usually have an assortment of small springs in useful sizes which will work for the stab line. However, for the small springs to “run” the timer, it is best to wind your own out of .009 to .012 guitar strings. They are cheap, made of really good steel, and come with a handy ferrule on the end which can be used for a variety of things. I wind my springs on a K-Fags Spring Winder, but you can use a drill press or any other device with some sort of rotatable chuck as well.
I can point you to some resources for the “mousetrap”. A good force multiplier arm setup was in NFFS Digest November 2004 issue.
Contact me directly via email at email@example.com for a drawing of the “mousetrap”. 🙂02/25/2006 at 5:57 pm #42977AnonymousInactive
I have a good supply of viscous timers for small models.
Just email me at either
or10/10/2006 at 6:51 pm #42978Timer GuyParticipant
I have posted photos of how Dean has used a Button timer for DT with a lever to take the stress off the timer. It is under “Helpful Hints” at http:texastimers.com.
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