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I just finished a Talon except for the timer starter that will work with the rudder release. I want to have a simple auto start, but can’t seem to come up with the simple part of it.
I am using a Texas DT timer. I can do it with a couple of springs, one to pull the start lever open and a pin to lock down the start lever that is attached to the ring and pulls out with the towline. There must be an easier way!!
Great looking glider, came out at 13.9 oz so it should be a floater. I don’t know if Don has or is going to produce a new run of kits, but this thing was a blast to build. My first time with lazer cut wood (been out of it for many years) and the fact that everything fit, including some parts that are on the side of tiny, was very new to me.
Thanks
Bruce Patton
San Luis ObispoThere is. I believe in the KISS principle and I’ve used this sytem for years with never a moment’s trouble with a Tatone or KSB and am sure the same would work on the Texes.
I have a lengh of monofilament attached to the “towhook”. Prior to launch I set the timer a fracton ahead of the desired D/T time, switch it on and insert the end of the monofilament through the switch slot to engage in the gearing. Timer stops; on launch the monofilament pulls out . .timer starts.
Correction – for “towhook” read “tow ring” Makes a world of difference….
Jim
I think that exceeds the KISS principal. You can leave off the last S.
For a Texas timer it takes a large piece of monofiliment, but still works.
Thanks
BruceRandy,
Just saw this thread and noted what is no doubt a small typo.
You probably figured this out by now, but I am quite sure Jim Moseley
meant for the mono line to be attached to the towLINE, or towRING,
but NOT to the towHOOK.
That way the falling towline will pull the mono line from the stop position.That is the ticket. 😉
LeeperLee,
Possibility #1:Attach the mono to the towhook. Put the towing on the hook and then run the mono to the timer. This “captures” the ring. As the ring comes off the hook, it will pull the line out of the timer and remain on the a/c. A little slack in the line[mono] will help.
Possibility #2: Attach the mono to the a/c, I would place the attachment point behind the towhook. Put the ring on the hook and also run the line through the ring then run the mono to the timer.Sure, that will work, Dennis.
Personally, I don’t care for those methods.
I guess I feel there would be a less clean, more jerky release potentially.
Especially if little or no lift is present to assist clean releasing.
Ciao,
LeeperoI wouldn’t do it either!
For a straight tow, I prefer the rudder to go into glide turn prior to release. The two planes that I have set up like that have been real bears to get to work correctly but release and entry to the glide is a snap.I also use a slightly offset hook[1/4″ to the right of centerline] on one model that brings the a/c into a glide turn at the top prior to release. It’s not the hook position that does the trick, it’s the rudder compensation needed to have it go up the line that makes it turn at the top. Timer and rudder release for glide are still necessary. Over 60 of these planes[F1H] have been built and flown using this method.
Jim Moseley meant for the mono line to be attached to the towLINE, or towRING, but NOT to the towHOOK.
Absolutely, Lee – thank you for bringing that to light. A small typo can cause a huge difference!!
I’ve used this system for decades from A/1’s and lightweight 50″ ‘Lulu’s up to my full-area Classic and I’ve never had the slightest problem with a clean release … the towline falls away and its weight slips the monofilament out of the timer …
Works for me.
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