Home › Forums › Free Flight › FAI Models & Flying › F1A washin adjustments
- This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 10 months ago by Anonymous.
10/25/2005 at 1:07 am #40396AnonymousInactive
Ken B. came by Saturday to help me sort out my wing wiggle problem. I had to take the wiggler out of the plane and adjust it to get the right panel back to being flat with the left panel. So my understanding is you want the two wings flat under straight tow and what is your base setting for circle washin? And Glide base setting?
Randy10/25/2005 at 1:12 am #42689AnonymousInactive
In the straight tow (hook fwd) there should be some washin. On my first 3PosWW, I set it up at true zero-zero, rudder was straight as well– the model tracked in a straight line once you pull the hook forward. In practice it was really neat– get it low, straighten it out and go like mad. Problem was in the heat of a contest with thermalling models overhead, I’d rush the launch and bonk one off to the left. After finally figuring out I was making one bad launch per contest and that usually resulted in a drop, not the way to go.
Now I adjust in just enough inb’d washin to get the model to “come around the corner” when setting up to launch. Every model as a “happy” point. This vares from model to model and towing style- notice that I “jerk” some model around the critical point more than others. A place to start is .030 but wing warps make that an estimate– adj until you feel comfortable and get consistant launches.
For circle tow I use .060- .080 washin on short model, .040- .060 washin for long model- depends on how tight you want to circle– ie wind verse calm
I use about .020 wash in for glide– again adjust to get a happy model in the thermal and near thermals.
When I went to servo driven Wing Wiggler, the adjustment change became so much easier so I do more fine tuning than before with the mechanical. Even though it’s a hassle i with the mechanical 3PWW, t is well worth finding the optimum “Happy” washin positions.
Advance lesson– now with the ability to go around for a second or third launch attempt with the ehook, I will be experimenting with the near zero-zero wing position again!
Thermals, JIM10/29/2005 at 8:30 am #42690AnonymousInactive
could you please describe ehook in more detail. I saw Stamov’s hook with servo on the japanese web but it is the only information I’ve.
Thanks.11/01/2005 at 12:43 am #42691AnonymousInactive
Corm11- how about a name?
The ehook was conceptualized after the 2004 finals but non-modeling activities kept me from developing before the Argentina WC. When I returned from Argentina, I started and found the development went quickly. The ehook uses a standard M&K hook body but uses the “j” hook piece and latch from their impluse hook. I simply fabbed a plate that holds a 3.3 gram servo and 2 brass cable guides. The servo drives a pull-pull cable sytem to open and close the latch. I repositioned the latch micro swith so that it is now triggered by the “piston/lock screw” that travels up and down with the hook. I have a rough dwg now and Dallas is drafting up better plans. email me and I’ll send the rough dwg to you. Vasliy has been given the dwgs and will be producing the unit in the near furture. I also understand Peter Deborg has a simlar system
The real challenge was then coming up with the soft ware. I used my current basic stamp timer and was able to do the programming myself. Roger Morrell has just modified his Black Magic timer to use with the ehook. I just got the first two timers and will be trying them out in the next two weeks.
To date I’ve only had 2 failures, the first was during test– with the model over head, I jerked down very hard and was not able to keep the hook forward and so the bunt sequence started. This is not near normal towing condition, even in turbulent-windy conditions. The other failure was I simply did not pull hard eough to signal the unlatch during the launch.
I have used the “go around” feature in the last 3 contest. The classic is setting up the launch, going hard, unlatch and feeling the pull (air) go flat. I simply eased up, counted to 3 (I have the relatch at 1.5 sec) and continued to tow. Several circles later the air had developed and bunt off for a max.
I plan to do an article when the better dwg is complete.
Thermals, JIM11/01/2005 at 12:46 pm #42692AnonymousInactive
thanks for your detailed description. I’m posting you private message with e_mail.
Very interesting indeed ! Soon we’ll need laptops and telemetry to program our flying machines on the field.
Pavol11/01/2005 at 2:40 pm #42693REYNOLD MAZZOCCOParticipant
Please don’t take discussion offline unless it’s personal. I learn alot from just following along, even if I don’t have anything to contribute.
Rey11/01/2005 at 2:53 pm #42694AnonymousInactive
I’m in a very similar similar situation like you – very little to contribute, just getting knowledge from more experienced fliers and technical gurus.
Pavol12/19/2005 at 5:18 pm #42695AnonymousInactive
I had said I would publish my ehook design but have not yet done so. My draftsman (son, Dallas) got too busy with college and Pierre Brun and myself have conceptualized a simpler design. I plan to work on the new design over my Christmas holiday break. If I can get a better didital photo, I’ll post those soon.
Also note that Pierre will be testing the protype Black Magic timer to command the new ehook. Vasily has produced a prototype ehook as well and Pierre and I hope to have one for test soon.
Hopefully, in the next few months, a commercially available Black Magic timer and e-hook will be available thru Vasily. Thermals for all- JIM12/20/2005 at 10:54 pm #42696nffs-adminKeymaster
Hi Jim and others,
another interesting web page description of this type of hook is here: http://www.gregorie.demon.co.uk/freeflight/flexhook/
Flexhook by Allard Van Wallene.
Maxes to all.. Charlie06/01/2006 at 2:20 pm #42697AnonymousInactive
is there any new development on the e-hook ?
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