Home › Forums › Free Flight › FAI Models & Flying › F1C trimming
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gos.
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11/01/2007 at 2:57 pm #40718
Anonymous
InactiveHello to everybody.
I am looking for the trimmng set for my future F1c
I think to operate in this mode:
I will consider the fuselage with esactly parallelism with the floor, so on zero degree; engine axes will be on zero degree like the fuselage, left wing on 2 degree an 30′ , right wing on 3 degree.
During engine time the rear wing will be set on +1 degree ( positive angle will made negative effect ), +6 degree during bunt time, – 1degree and 15′ during flying.
I’ve considered the girocopic precession, the most degree of the right wing will made a negative effect ( you have the effect 90° after the cause, it is correct? ) that will contrast the positive of the wings.I hope to contrast the rotation with vertical flap, left direction in egine time, right direction in flying.
Do you think it maybe correct?
what trimming set do you use?
Thanks a lot!
ciao
Stefano
12/09/2007 at 7:11 pm #44830Anonymous
Inactivenobody wants to tell me if I’m doing right or bad?
I do not belive that your trimming is secret….. 😉
Ciao!!
Lake
12/09/2007 at 8:43 pm #44831Anonymous
InactiveLake,
I’m sorry no-one better qualified has answered your question.
I have very little experience with very modern F1C’s.My last F1C project had 2 degree downthrust in the engine.
I believe you might find that you need more incidence difference between the left and right wings – you have 0.5 degrees difference. I think this needs to be 1 degree or maybe even 1.5 degrees difference. (right wing +3 degrees, left wing +2 degrees)
Tail angle and rudder descriptions seem approximately correct.
John12/11/2007 at 11:35 pm #44832Anonymous
InactiveStefano,
Sorry there has not been more support to your F1C set-up request. I’m a F1A flyer so of no help.
I’m guessing the the F1C flyers out there just find the question overwhelming. Most USA flyers find a mentor during this critical phase.
Perhaps a one of you F1C flyers could reference some exsisting article in magezines, Sympos etc.
12/12/2007 at 2:53 am #44833Lee Hines
ParticipantStefano,
I am a glider flier, like Jim Parker, but had a thought of where you might
get F1C trim setup closer to Milano.
Try contacting the top Italian fliers.
Rocca, Lustrati, Venuti are World Champions and surely would be able
to give you answers.Good Luck!
Ciao,
Lee12/12/2007 at 8:01 am #44834gos
ParticipantFailing contact with the famous Italian flyers, perhaps do what seems to be mostly done—-set it up so as it looks right on the ground, then when all functions work several times with the engine running, and all is still okay—-launch it verticaly on a very short engine run, with the DT set one second after engine shut down.
Keep increasing the engine run, and DT length as long as all is well
adjust things one at a time as you get it to the 5 second mark safely.12/15/2007 at 11:52 pm #44835JLorbiecki
ParticipantWell, I know someone that flies F1C….
We typically have about 2 degrees positive built in for the wing. The stab is set at maybe 1 degree (or more) positive in the stab. Rudder is typically about .02″-.03″ left for power. Wash in will vary (see that wash in link) but typically the tips are about .03″-.06″ washed out and then the inner panels will vary on what you waht to use. Engine is run 0-0…No down, no side thrust….
Bunt is typically all you can get from your mechanism- somewhere around .2″ , is fired off at engine flood off, and held for .7 seconds or so…This is again played with if not acceptable.
Glide setting will be whatever it takes. We run about a 50% cg. Set up circle so that it is at least one minute circles. Use as little rudder as possible. Typically, no stab tilt.
Test with about a 1 sec engine run, engine tuned to as fast as she will go, launch vertical with wings as parallel to the earth as possible, and dt as soon as engine shuts off. Make any corrections needed and contiinue increasing run. After about 2 1/2 seconds you must slow down the dt and can maybe start to think about bunting. We normally don’t glide until we are up to 4 seconds. This gives plenty of altitude just in case. Do not start setting up bunt timing until you have a full run. Speed will effect the results…
So, that is what we try to do!!
12/16/2007 at 3:29 am #44836gos
ParticipantSo now I know someone also who knows about trimming an F1C.
I have seen plenty of rather nice new F1C as well as Open power models smashed on the first flight.
I have also seen plenty when the DT is set too early when the things at full go
only to ‘clap it’s hands’ when the DT pops.The real trouble is you are looked on as an interfering silly old SOB, if you say anything.
I gave up long ago, and I’m too damn old to care anymore—-let ’em do it their way.12/16/2007 at 4:58 am #44837JLorbiecki
ParticipantWe have quick dt’ed all our new stuff up to 2 sec without a failure (the infamous hand clapping….I too have seen that)…The carbon stuff is pretty bullet proof (at least our stuff is, with big spars and such)… All I can say is that it works for us. I would be willing to say that a delayof a coupla seconds isn’t a bad thing tho….
So, let’s just say dt as soon as you feel comfortable but still safe if the model gets squirelly…
12/16/2007 at 8:37 am #44838gos
ParticipantI’m with you totaly on the 2 second bit. But I have seen them when the DT pops as or before the motor shuts off. Very exciting. Cringe, cringe.
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