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What weight fiberglass cloth would I use to cover a rolled tube for a power model?? I see .06oz….07oz…1oz…Any tips on application would be helpfull too. ❓
Thanks,
DDWhat size model is it? That should tell you what weight cloth to use. In terms of application, I’d dope the tube first, then using dope, attach the fiberglass to the tube. When all this is dry, brush a real thin coat of slow cure (24 hour) epoxy over it and then wipe off all the excess with paper towels. Alternatively, us the fast cyano over the glass and smooth out the glue with paper towels. I use this method for putting glass on prop blades and I get pretty good stiffness from it. Either way, use as little glue as possible as this really puts on the weight. Sand after everything dries and put on a couple more coats of dope.
I’ve used the 3/4oz ‘glass cloth on old style F1C wings and have doped it on, then given it a very thin coat of epoxy to seal and proof it.
Works well and should be fine on a boom too.Hey Denny….
I use either .5 or .6 oz cloth….Easiest way to apply it is to use something like Hoby Poxy (or Klas Kote) clear epoxy paint and brush it thru it.
When ya use this thin stuff, set it on a smooth surface and spray a light coat of either hair spray or thin dope on it. This sizes it (stiffens) and makes it alot easier to handle. Also, I have frequently used 3M Spray Mount to lightly adhere it to the structure I am applying it to. It takes a very light dusting- Hold the structure vertically and again just dust it. Cut the glass to size, place it on the structure, and the apply the epoxy. I like epoxy paint better than dope because it adheres the cloth better to the structure…
Oh, and to cut it….I will sometimes put down a length of waxed paper. Lay the cloth on the waxed paper. Put another layer on top. You can tape the edges down (of the wax paper) to keep it from moving. Then take a brand new razor blade with a heavy straight edge (did I mention heavy?!) and cut along the edge. This will hold it down securely and give you a nice line. If sized enough, it will hold this edge when you apply it….
All of the above ideas come from having to use long or large pieces of the slimy stuff- wings and fuselages…
If done right, it will take maybe one final coat of epoxy over the top and it is sealed and fuel proofed!
Good luck!
Thanks John,
I like your ideas. I put the pylon and rear fin in today. Just about ready for the glass. I am going to use Klas Kote clear.Do you think I should put a coat of clear dope on the balsa to give me a smooth (er) surface??
DDI never have done that- The pores of the balsa will help hold the epoxy and I think the bond between the two will be better. I would just sand with 220 or 400 and then go for it….It really is simple-
If you use the 3M Spray Mount, use VERY little. It really sticks very well.
Good luck…
You could stick it down with Nitrate dope. Then a coat of nitrate to seal it. Then the epoxy. Sticking it with epoxy sounds like a colossal pain.
Dan buddy….The epoxy paint is very thin, just like dope- And if not, then thin it. It brushes on real easy. Now, if you used regular epoxy, then I would agree. Back “in the day” we used to use thinned Hobby Poxy epoxy glue- That was a pain…Some folks would use polyester resin. That was a pain also!
Hey now.I know the epoxy paint is thin-unlike me.
I’m just thinking of using the dope as a base and applying thinner through the cloth, a la silk or just tissue. Probably couldn’t measure the weight gain easier to clean from fingers.
I just used Polyspan on the C Marval. It hasn’t broken, but I’ve not crashed it either.
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