Icarex 31 and F1B

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    Does anyone has experience using this material on F1B’s?
    It’s 1/2 oz per square yard.
    Do you feel it could be better then polyspan?
    Thanks a lot

    Bill Shailor

    A little on the heavy side. Keep the wings light.


    Usually the F1Bs need some ballast to get them up to minimum weight. I think the light weight rip stop nylon material would be ideal for maybe center panels.


    I have found this information about different covering materials weights.
    Beying so used as Micafilm is, I’m surprised that the colour one is heavier then Icarex.
    Any comments?

    Covering gm/m²

    Polimicro 1.3
    2micron clear mylar 2.2
    2 micron aluminised mylar 2.6
    .012 condenser paper 3.7
    4micron aluminised mylar 6.8
    5 micron clear mylar 7.0
    5 micron Microlite 10.0
    Lt. Silkspan 12.0
    Jap tissue (Lite Flite) 12.0
    Litefilm/Solite 20.0
    Micafilm clear 22.0
    Airspan 24.0
    Polyspan 25.0
    Litespan 28.0
    Coverlite 28.0
    Micafilm colour 35.0
    Fibafilm 40.0
    Solarfilm 50.0
    Monokote transparent 57.0
    Solarspan 60.0
    Solarkote 65.0
    Solarcover 65.0
    Monokote solid 75.0
    Solartex 80.0
    Glosstex 120.0

    Bill Shailor

    Good information!
    I think the Icarex 31 is 31 grams per square meter. I still prefer Polyspan for wings. Easily patched and if painted using FAI Supply’s dye, no weight gain by adding colors.

    Peter Brocks

    What really matters is the weight of the covering after it is installed. That finished weight includes the adhesive and in case of the Polyspan a big percentage is for the dope. These are my net weights (1st number) and the total weight (2nd number) in g/m2.
    Clear Micafilm 25 30
    Polyspan 23 40
    Icarex (1/2 oz) 36 41
    Clear Mylar (1/4 mil) 8 11
    Clear Mylar (1/2 mil) 15 18


    Great Information Peter,
    So it seems that Mylar will be a good option, being waterproof and very resistant.
    Any special tricks to cover with it?

    Peter Brocks


    To adhere Mylar to the structure I use Velcro Adhesive. I put a small blob of this clear contact cement in a small mixing cup and thin it with M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and brush it onto the structure. Another good adhesive available in Europe is Pattex Transparent made by Henkel – this will yellow a bit after some time. Use a small sealing or a trim iron to adhere the mylar. Use the iron to shrink. Mylar will shrink quite a bit – the clear more than the aluminized. Your structure has to be strong or you have to be very careful when applying heat. These adhesives are also great for covering with Micafilm and Icarex. Icarex by the way is the most puncture proof covering material.


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