lightwieght polyspan

[RICHARD IVERS JR]

I am recovering my 435 wing F1Q that I built last year. It was covered with lt. Nelson film. The wing was fluttering during climb (slow worm (435).My plan was to cover it with the new light weight polyspan.My concern is that the material has an open weave and many voids and air pockets. Will doping be enough to seal these? I dont want to lose lift. Thanks, Rich Ivers Jr.

[REYNOLD MAZZOCCO]

Have you considered tissue over mylar? It will take care of the flutter, is lighter than tissue alone, and it seals your model against the weather.

Instructions and comments:

http://www.gryffinaero.com/models/ffpages/tips/mylartissue.html

http://www.newg.info/tissue_mylar.html

Woodhouse sells detailed instructions @
http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/

Rey

[MIKE SZURA]

Richard,
No flutter. No dope. Heat shrink. F1A 10grams per wing.

http://ecom.citystar.com/hang-em-high/FabricColorsRipstopPolycarbonate.html

covered wing

http://www.geocities.com/sidewayskid/photopagestars.html
Have Fun

[CHARLES C GROTH]

Hi Dick,

Where do you get the light weight polyspan?

Sincerely,
Chuck

[rivers]

Chuck,
This thread was started by my son Richard. He’s having trouble logging onto this site, so I’ll answer your question for him.
He got the lightweight polyspan from Mike Woodhouse as listed above. The material did not work very well for his application. It has a very open texture which requires a lot of dope (too much) to fill. Richard now has a lifetime supply of the stuff. If you want some for free just email him at: richardivers@comcast.net .
He ended up using regular Polyspan with nitrate dope.
Dick Ivers

[CHARLES C GROTH]

Thanks Dick. I guess, from what you say, We’d better stay away from
the stuff. My E-36 model is an old class A job from the 1989 USOC. It’s
covered with Japanese tissue which, after 18 years, got quite fragile.
Someone said you can remove old Japanese tissue by wrapping the
wing with paper towels, pouring a pint of acetone on it, and letting it soak in a sealed can for 30 minutes or so. Suposedly it will come off intact
without minutely daubing, sanding and scraping. Perhaps worth trying.
There’s nothing wrong with Japanese tissue if it isn’t so old.

[George Reinhart]

Be careful! I’ve got the feeling that you might just re-kit the model when the tissue comes off if it’s built using solvent based glue (Ambroid?).
Cheer!

[CHARLES C GROTH]

It was CA.

[Timer Guy]

I have not used it, but the light weight polyspan is available in the US from Larry Davidson.

Polyspan regular is very popular with the gas power fliers.

[gstew]

@cgroth wrote:

Someone said you can remove old Japanese tissue by wrapping the
wing with paper towels, pouring a pint of acetone on it, and letting it soak in a sealed can for 30 minutes or so. Suposedly it will come off intact
without minutely daubing, sanding and scraping. Perhaps worth trying.

This technique works quite well IF the model was not built with a solvent-sensative glue. CA is affected by acetone… I’d be cautious using it on both cellulose-based glues and models assembled purely with CA.

Also, when I’ve used this technique, I wrap the model component with paper towels, then place it on a piece of saran-wrap large enough to cover the piece. Pour on enough thinner to soak the paper towels, then wrap the component up in the saran-wrap. Wait 10-15 minutes, then unwrap a section at a time and pull off the loosened tissue.

Greg in Mississippi (usetabe Minneapolis… BTW Charles, good to run into you last summer at the NATS during my 2-hour visit!)

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