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In a moment of weakness I bought an O&R23 about a year ago on eBay and recently purchased the ignition bits from Texas Timers.I never thought it would run but I had a go today using glow fuel.I used an 8×6 prop and managed to get it started with the ignition lever set at horizontal.The first 3 runs were for about 20 seconds each.After a break I had another go and it ran properly.I didn’t expect much power from such ancient technology.I had to run it rich to slow it down!! I dont have a tacho but it was fairly screeming.I tried a larger prop, a 10×6 but this was too big for smooth running.The other big advantage is the simplicity of using a timer to cut the engine by breaking the low tension circuit-coutesy of Texas Timers.The case is Magnesium(alloy?) so its a very light engine.It is certainly good enough for an open power free flight model.I use a single cell lithium battery for the ignition.Even though these engines were before my time, I am quite sold on them.I think aeromodelling in England in the late 50s was spoilt by the popular Keil Kraft kits that were too small and difficult to fly,and now I suspect the Sparkies were better than my ED BEE or AM15 etc. Not all change is progress.
The old 23 was a good motor as long as it was not worn out.
I had one in a 48in span Comet Interceptor in the mid 70s.
It started and ran well, but the model was heavy with all the gear in it and broke up a couple of times on arriving so I pulled the 23 out and put in a Torp. Green Head 15 to improve the performance.It ended up destroying its self by DTing onto a barbed wire fence.
It lay around and about 15 years ago I was offered a goodly sum for it and a very nice Arden 19, that I was never game to use—-so I let them go.
From memory I used a 10×4 and a 9×6 prop. on the 23. Ran it on gas/petrol and oil mix but did try it on the bench on glo fuel. It ran hard.
Don’t put glo fuel into the plastic tank though Doc.I think if I was going to run an old O&R23 on methanol, I would probably use at least 25% castor in the mix.
I will give it a go with petrol soon.I think my tank and tubing are not petrol proof.I used a separate tank for glowfuel,as I had heard that it wasn’t good for the integral tank.
😯 An O&R .23 on nitro—!!!!!! Just use alcohol and castor oil—mebbe 3:1 Gas:SAE70 oil. That’s too good an old engine to ruin with anything else. 8)
Hi Doc
For open power you are about 50 years too late with the O&R 23 sparkie. Might I suggest a design along the lines of Norman Marcus’s “Fire cracker” (I think that’s the name) or a Zeek; flown by Gussy Gunter in the early 50’s. Use the model in nostalgia or vintage power events.
Ployd in OZ
>a Zeek; flown by Gussy Gunter
Zeek? Gus flew Banshee’s, later his own Clubman design
Marcus’s Firecracker would be ideal for the .23, as designed
Hi Jim
Yep, you’re right, know it was one of Leon Shulman’s designs.
The Clubman would be another good design with a few mods to the engine installation especially all that right thrust 😯
Ployd in OZ
I have been flying it in my own design pylon model.It is a lot more powerful than I expected.I have a Texas Timer in it that works a treat and its very easy to time the engine run.It is just slightly over capacity for BMFA power class,which only allows up to 3.5cc.I haven’t entered any comps yet,but it flies ok.I just need the thermals!
I have acquired an O&R 60 so I might need to get a bigger car to transport a model for it!
I rather like sparkies.@docjames wrote:
I have been flying it in my own design pylon model.It is a lot more powerful than I expected.I have a Texas Timer in it that works a treat and its very easy to time the engine run.It is just slightly over capacity for BMFA power class,which only allows up to 3.5cc.I haven’t entered any comps yet,but it flies ok.I just need the thermals!
I have acquired an O&R 60 so I might need to get a bigger car to transport a model for it!
I rather like sparkies.Build PLAYBOY SNR. for your O&R 60 doc. Great flyers, look good and you have the right motor for it.
I have one with a FOX35 that is used for Aussie Vintage
everything needs to be pre. ’55.Thanks for the advice.There is a kit for the Playboy Senior by Ben Buckle.When I get the engine running I might just buy it.I am just finishing off an Open rubber model,so I won’t start another build for a couple of weeks.
@docjames wrote:
Thanks for the advice.There is a kit for the Playboy Senior by Ben Buckle.When I get the engine running I might just buy it.I am just finishing off an Open rubber model,so I won’t start another build for a couple of weeks.
Nah, just get hold of a copy of an original plan and do it that way.
The old Comet plan from 1941 will be correct, and you can choose your wood to do a good job of the build.I’m with Gossie – scratchbuild. Buckle kits, from what I’ve read, often leave much to be desired .
You’ll build it better, stronger, lighter and cheaper yourself.
@gos wrote:
@docjames wrote:
Thanks for the advice.There is a kit for the Playboy Senior by Ben Buckle.When I get the engine running I might just buy it.I am just finishing off an Open rubber model,so I won’t start another build for a couple of weeks.
Nah, just get hold of a copy of an original plan and do it that way.
The old Comet plan from 1941 will be correct, and you can choose your wood to do a good job of the build.I always thought that the Playboy was a Cleveland plan.
Rey
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