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Pete asked me to pass along a look at his new Electric model. The model is built from 404 Astrostar plans from the Junior F1P program with a wider fuselage to accomodate the battery and a Maverick style pylon. The power is an Axi 2208/20 with a Jeti 18amp controller and a Starlink timer. Pete is still testing with a 8 X 6 Cam folder with a 2 cell 30c 700mah Enerland and a 7.5 X 4 Cam folder with a 3 cell 30c 700mah Enerland. Hopefully we will get an update on his testing. I think that it is a great looking model and should be very competive. Pete would close with a hearty “Cheers”.
We are patiently waiting upon flight test results.
Which prop/battery system have you decided on? We are hungry for info!Dan,
Yesterday was the third day I’ve had a chance to test fly the model.First day was not too bad using the trim chip and 3 second run w/instant DT. Used the 8×6 prop and both the 2 cell and 3 cell batteries. Not much difference in performance with the 8×6 prop. Four flights ending with a 6 second run and about 1 3/4″ of 1/2 x1/8 T E stock on the rudder for right turn under power to cure what looked like an impending loop. Also took out 1/32″ stab incidence on 3 rd flight. Better climb, better glide transition.
Second day saw 1 1/2 deg down thrust added (was 0 deg.) and 2 1/2 ” TE stock for first test flight. Changed the prop to the 7.5 x 4 folder with Jennings hub and used only the 3 cell. started with 6 sec. runs and altered the amount of rudder trim. Finally got to 10 sec. runs and 5 sec. DTs.
Ship is very consistent and very easy to trim. I have not really had a good look at the glide as yet. 7.5 x 4 w/ 3 cell is definitely the way to go.Yesterday I had installed the flite chip looking for 10 sec to start and 1 min. DT. When I built the model I had put it together dead flat with no wing warps and so became a little concerned about spiraling in to the right. I managed to coerce the right inner panel to accept 3/32″ washin and hold it stable for a week. There was no noticable change in power pattern.
Got in 3 flights while trying to get the DT/ to go past instant DT. I’m guessing that I’m doing something wrong with the programming sequence or there is something wrong with the chip.
A call to Larry is first thing on my list tomorrow.
As it sits now with around 10 flights the ship is climbing like a rocket at about 70 degrees and making about 1 turn in 10 seconds without going flat. Last three flights all exactly the same so I have to see that as a real confidence builder. Lots different from the rubber models I usually fly.Say, I was just wondering if you’re planning on setting the very first Electric ROW record at this year’s Nats? Got those floats built yet?
Cheers!, Pete
Pete, it sounds like you are loaded for bear. The chip might be a problem. Are you just using it for DT? Since I know that auto-surfaces are something to drive upon, I don’t need the extra servo action.
I got Larry to make me 2 chips. Each has 5-25 sec motors with a fixed DT-one is 2min other is 3min. I plug the battery and press 1-5 on the button for motor run. Its ready for flight and requires no thinking. That’s a big deal for me!Washin can be done with a TE stock tab, just like you’re doing with the rudder tab. Many on my planes have it as well as built-in wash. I’m surprised that you were able to effect a warp on that wing. I’ll be interested to know if it stays over the long-haul.
Rise Off water will need to wait. I certainly know that Rise Out of Water will be a poorly supported event. Too much smoke involved.
I’m thinking your rig must be doing 22k rpm. Have you checked it out for real numbers?
Dan’
I don’t have a tach so, maybe next time I’m around a real power flyer I’ll ask them to check it for me. The calculations show it should be somewhere around 20-22k rpm though, I think you’re close to what it should be.
RE the warp, I’m hoping it stays and so far it seems stable. The wing is covered with polyspan and 3 thin coats of nitrate to seal. If it doesn’t stay, I’ll try wedges. It’s only the glide potion I’m worried about, the power part looks good so far.You could be on to something in that the servo setting function may be getting dropping in causing early DT. I’ll find out and make a post here.
I have a friend with a radio controlled electric submarine model so I know there must be a solution to the smoke problem. Don’t give up.
Cheers!, Pete
Lost on the third Max at Denver.
If it’s found, I’ll re-post.
Cheers!
PS
I’d reccomend this set-up to anyone whoneeds a cosistent easy to trim mdel that has phenominal performance. P.Jim,
There were only two of us, Myself and Dick Wood.
The format was modified from F1Q.
5 flights , no rounds. After seeing the Astrostar fly a couple of check flights, Dick requested the contest diirector to make the flights be 15 second motor run and 2 minute maxes. I went along with the 15 second run as it didn’t matter to me, though 10 seconds and 3 minutes might have been more of a challenge.
Dick was first by virtue of being able to complete all 5 flights even with dropping a max or two and he deserved the win.
I lost Astrostar on the third flight (while making easy maxes) and I’m pretty sure now that I jammed the D/T line on the launch. I was not able to hold and launch the model correctly as I had severely strained my right arm in a chase bike fall on the first contest day (F1Q was on Monday). It was climbing high enough that it almost didn’t matter when you launched as it could max with no thermal assist.
On 15 second motor run, the Astrostar was out climbing almost all of the regular power models.
We had a strong tracker signal for 30 – 45 minutes after launch but the unfamiliar road network around the Denver site along wth the terrain caused us to lose the signal when the model went to ground. We never got the signal back and I had to leave on Tuesday or I might have hired an airplane to do an air search.
I can only hope some farmer out there will find it and call in when he does.
I would sure like to have the model back but I can easily build another just like it, though I will change the D/T line arrangement.Cheers!
Jim,
I believe it was the Oldenkamp design that Larry Bagalini has for sale.
I am not sure but I think it was somwhat modified from stock.
Smaller and much lighter than the Astrostar and also much less powerful.
Cheers!Could you provide an explanation as to how your DT setup works? Possibly with a diagram or a close up picture? I’m setting up an Orbiteer with a redesigned fuselage so I could get some of the electrics inside. My next fuselage will definitely be a box setup so I don’t have a bunch of stuff hanging out. I know that parasitic drag is not too much of a concern, however I’d like to have a cleaner model. Any help on the DT setup your using would be appreciated. Thanks, Ralph
Ralph,
If you look at the second picture down at the top of this page there is a view of the bottom of the model.
The D/T line runs to a force multiplier latch the is restrained (and released) by th plus shaped actuator arm on the servo. it then runs to the rear of thr fuselage (externally) to a curved tube with a 90 deg. bend running up through the fuselage at the trailing edge of the stab. I put a small hole in the center of the T.E. and then run the line with a loop in it to the band hook on the forward top of the stab.
I put a stopper knot and glass bead in the line forward of the bent tube at an appropriate distance to serve as a D/T limit.
I ran it all externally for convenience and servicability but usually run this same set up on other models internally with thw stop bead forward of where the line enters the fuselage. The rubber band in the picture is loope around the skid wire just to hold the stab down for the picture. If I remember correctly, I used 6# line with about an inch of stretch to tesion the system. 10# line would probably work as well. There ar likely other ways to accomplish the same function but this is quick and simple to rig for me and reliable as well as easy to service. The D/T failure which lost the model was operator error no system failuer.
Cheers!
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