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I just recieved this kit recently. It has a balsa rolled fusealoge. My question is what needs to be done for strength? Cover in tissue, coat with resin etc? Pretty neat kit as it even has formed wing saddle to move pylon for CG. Also how much rubber and how long?
Tx,DanI’d probably tissue the tube. It keeps the sides a little stiffer and water from soaking in and weakening the tube.
I’d also wrap the tube, only where the pylon will sit, with the real light Sig glass cloth. This will keep the pylon from flexing and changing the stab tilt at launch.
As far as strands, there are 2 schools of thought. One is to blast it up with more strands and a shorter run. The second is to use less and have a longer prop run, I have always thought that for wind, you want to blast it up. For calm, fly it up.
Good luck!
BillI built a couple of those 20 years ago. A really good flyer.
It is almost identical to the Pirate by Starlink. The Pirate does have an improved fuselage, but needs the center of the wing beefed up a little.
Anyhow, 10 grams of rubber, I think that I use 3 loops for the Pirate that I am now flying. You have roughly 118″ of 1/8″ rubber, so 6 strands gives you about a 19″ center distance. 118″ is approximately 9.8 grams.
With the Potent 30 I did have trouble holding the nose plug in with hooks and rubber band, and if the motor breaks, you will split the fuselage, so don’t put in too many winds.
I once put that model into the massive thermal and it almost went out of sight before the motor stopped. Brings back wonderful thermal memories.
I built a really long fuselage for that set of wings, and flew it in unlimited, and lost it.
My home grown P30 has a tube fuselage that I rolled myself over a broomstick using 1/32 balsa.
To finish it off I doped on the very very light ‘glass cloth, and this has done a good job.
I also poured some dope into the tube so the lube would not soak into the wood as much.I use 4 strands of 1/8th Tan2 in mine and get close to 2000 turns on it.
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