rolling a balsa tube

[Anonymous]

this might have been answered before. But, I wonder what are the tricks in rolling a balsa tube. I am making the Flying Models P-30 “Bluefin. It has 2 layers of 1/16 balsa around a 11/16” inner core. The most difficult part is the tail section. The top of the tail section is flat. But, the bottom angles upwards. Thanks!

[gos]

FWIW my P30 rolled fuselage was made from straight grained 1/32nd sheet.
It’s the same dia. from front to rear.
I never felt it warranted to taper it in any way.
The wood was soaked in water overnight and rolled around a broomstick, then doped inside and out, then covered with lightweight tissue.
No blast tube has ever been used and it’s held up well if a motor lets go.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Have had the plans for 10 years and I have never built it before because of the rolled tube.

[Anonymous]

A tapered tail boom is used to keep the tail end of the model as light as possible. Not using one results in a much heavier tail. Remember, the heavier the tail, the more nose weight will be needed to balance the model. Or the wing ends up in the middle of the fuselage, which is not the optimum place on any model.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, all! The tapered tail is where the difficulty is. How to roll a tube where the bottom and sides are tapered, but, the top of the tail is flat as the main portion of the fuselage?

[DAN BERRY]

Roll a tapered tube, then trim the front end until the top is parallel to the fuselage top.

[Dean McGinnes]

And the next obvious question: How to join the tapered rear boom to the constant diameter portion? 😕 😕

[George Reinhart]

Glue 😆

[DAN BERRY]

Glue :lol

Well, that’s what we use out here.

[REYNOLD MAZZOCCO]

@flydean wrote:

And the next obvious question: How to join the tapered rear boom to the constant diameter portion? 😕 😕

I think the Q is how do you transition from a round motor tube to an oval shaped tail boom which has resulted from cutting it off at an angle to create the flat top surface?

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the replies. Should have bought the article along with the plans 10 years ago. Has anyone evr built the Flying Models magazine plan, Bluefin P-30?”

[REYNOLD MAZZOCCO]

Haven’t built the Bluefin, but there are some alternatives to the tapered rear portion of the fuselage.

There is a trend to 4 strand motors that run the full length of the fuselage, so if you go that route, no need to taper the rear. Just put the peg back there.

If you are staying with a shorter motor, you could use a small diameter carbon tube attached to the top of the motor tube. Attach your stab and fin on it. End the motor tube at the rear peg. Sorta looks like a stinger.

Rey

[George Reinhart]

Or…
You could get a very nice fiberglass “pirate” fuselage from Larry Bagalini at Starlink flite-tech. It will likely be smaller, lighter, and stronger than a rolled balsa tube. Well worth the relatively small money it costs In my most humble opinion.
Cheers!

[Anonymous]

I built this model just after it was published and love it. The rear tube is molded over a tapered candle. The front of the tapered tube is cut at the proper diameter point and beveled to produce a flat top. You can temporarily insert a circle of balsa to support the end to be sanded. The joint was accomplished by again inserting a circle of balsa half into the fore piece, leaving a supported surface to GLUE the rear section. Align carefully before gluing (do I need to say this to a F/F crowd?). 💡

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help. Have ordered plans from Flying Models last December. And, still haven’t heard from them.

[Author]

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