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Stripped silk off a 1970’s vintage Nig Nog wing and stab.. What a BAAAAD job. 👿 I used acetone to loosen things up. After about half a wing , I got the hang of when to start peeling the silk off.Not a pretty site!! Sanded it down Sunday afternoon sitting outside on the deck. I wish I would have kept track of the time it took. I’m pretty sure I could have come close to building a new wing and and stab in the time it took to get it ready for covering. Probably wouldn’t have said all those bad words either 😡
Anybody out there have any good stripping XXX ideas??
DennyThis is why my tissue-covered 1/2A Marval hasn’t been re-covered.
I’ve never met a stripper who flew model planes.Also with MEK use all of the safety things like gloves and a resperator if you have one. Great for using but not so good for the body…
A friend of mine, many years ago, showed me a really slick method to remove anything attached with dope. Depending on the size of your model, (let’s use a small 1/2 for example), spray the covering with thinner/acetone….get it good and saturated…..and maybe do just one half the wing at a time…..then put it into a bread bag, or plastic garbage bag or what have you. As long as it’s plastic……then let it sit for a couple of hours…..just make certain you don’t let it dry out……then start peeling away your old covering.
As for using MEK…..it’s really bad stuff….will melt the plastic bags and if it will do that to a bag….just think what it does to you…..and I really do know….PLEASE!!!! Take time to go to pull this up and read carefully and pass it along to those you know.A variation of the above told by JO’D. Wrap the wing with toilet tissue and drip on some celulose thinners. Place in a bag, add a little more thinners in the bottom and seal for a couple of hours. When you take it out of the bad, the toilet tissue acts as a carrier and the covering can come off in one piece. Tried it in the days before heat shrink films and it works perfectly.
CHE
Toilet paper, eh?
In the days on tissue covered frames, Bob White, Jim Quinn, Sal Taibi,
told us a very similar/equal method using paper towels.
My initial thought when you said toilet paper was that it would dissintegrate
when it got wet with thinner, but then I realized the covering would keep
it all enmass no doubt, until time to unwrap.
I recall using acetone & poouring it into the baggie, & I had to find a long
one for A2 wings.Caveat: if the tissue has been cured for over say, 25 yrs, even acetone
bagging may not strip it.
True story: in ’06 I restored a wing and stab built in ’70s, and nothing would dissolve that dope on the frame.
I ultimately had to cut, pick, scrape, wipe thinner & finally sand it down
to bare wood!Leeper
When using the various bagging/solvent techniques, what happens to the glue that holds the structure together?
I would think even Titebond would be violated.All the frameworks I stripped using that method were either Titebonded or epoxied. I don’t recall any joints that were bothered by acetone or
nitrate thinner.
Mind you, I seldom let the solvent bagging stay closed more than 20 minutes, I reckon.
I did have one titebonded glider, lost in rainstorm, that was basicly fell apart & was ‘rekitted’ when I found it.Leeper
Even nitrate thinner contains MEK (Read warnings posted elsewhere on this site about MEK). Stick with acetone and wear gloves.
My gallon can of Randolph nitrate thinner, purchased within the last few months, lists methel ethel ketone among its ingredients.
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