Tissue Vs. Mylar in humid conditions

[DENNIS KARGOL]

What is everyone using for covering? I remember back in the 60’s and 70’s everyone used tissue for covering. Tissue sags terribly in the midwest humid mornings. Any better products to use for these conditions?

[Glenn Schneider]

I still use tissue but do most of my flying in the dry West. Mylar is water proof but has no structural rigidity, it works well on structures with good inherent rigidity ie carbon D box. Tissue over mylar works well in the humidity without adding too much weight. Poly span is waterproof and has reasonable rigidity. The newer light weight polyspan is much improved from the earlier version, tighter, fewer holes. For anything larger than a 1/2 A, I use tissue over the polyspan. This gives very good rigidity, is very water proof, and the tissue can be applied onto the polyspan base in any design and color you desire. Thermals, Glenn Schneider

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[DENNIS KARGOL]

Thanks Glenn, Where can I obtain the newer light weight polyspan? Never used polyspan before.

[Glenn Schneider]

Dennis, My supplier has been Mike Woodhouse from England. He bought a “batch” from the manufacturer somewhere on the continent. A batch was 2000 meters! I bought 100 meters from him and have been selling it in 10 foot batches to my friends and clubmates for $15.00 or $1.50 a foot ( approx my cost). The material is one meter wide. If you happen to be going to the Nats, I’ll be there with the goods. Let me know if you want me to hold some for you. Polyspan is a non woven polyester, it comes in any color you want as long as it is white. It looks like silkspan. You apply it with dope applied through it onto the frame, then given a coat of dope, then shrunk with a monokote iron. Water has no effect on it. A favorite of mine is to then cover it with tissue which gives color and much added stiffness. I’ve even done a 1/2A like that with minimal weight penalty. Very tough and completely waterproof. Regular polyspan is a bit heavier, much tighter and works well by itself. color can be applied with dyed dope sprayed on. USA suppliers include FAI Supply, Larry Davidson, Campbell used to have it, so Retro RC should. Good stuff, try it you’ll like it. Thermals, Glenn

[DENNIS KARGOL]

Hi Glenn,
Would really like to try some. But I can’t make it to the NATS this year. Any way you would send some?

[Glenn Schneider]

Dennis, Let me know how much you want. My usual batch has been ten feet X one meter for $15.00. If that works for you, I’ll get a postage quote from the post office. Thermals, Glenn

[Dean McGinnes]

You also might investigate tissue over mylar. Really good for 1/2A. Generally lighter than tissue alone as much less dope, usually 2 coats of 20% – 25% dope/thinner. I’ve used it on my 250 Satellite. 1/4 mil mylar. On bigger models 1/2mil mylar would be better. I haven’t been on the forum much as of late, but you can find much info on the technique by searching this forum. It’s really easy to do.

[Glenn Schneider]

Dennis, Don’t know how to send a PM on this new website. Contact me at gtodds@sbcglobal.net re the polyspan. Thermals, Glenn

[Rudy Kluiber]

Hey Glenn

I’ll be at Muncie for the Nat’s. Would like to get some of that new lite
Weight poly.
See you at the field.

Thanks

Rudy Kluiber

[Mike Schwartz]

Glenn Bob DeShields and I would like to get 4 packages of the new lite weight polyspan and 2 packages of the regular weight polyspan. We would like to get it from you at the NWFFC in Tangent this August.

Thanks

[gstew]

Dean and others,

If doing tissue over mylar, what are recommended mylar adhesives and application techniques?

Also, how many coats of what dope over the tissue and how best to fuel-proof it?

TIA!

Greg in Mississippi

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