what type of Fuel!

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  • #40667
    Scott Lapraik
    Participant

    Good day panel of experts! I have a question! Since I’ve been out of the sport for 38 years and just getting back into it. I used to just by cox fuel and didn’t think about the % of nitro, or any of the lubricants. Since you can’t buy the Cox fuel anymore I’ve been using Six 25% Nitro, 13% castor oil, and 12% synthetic oil. I am using this in Cox Baby Bees and plan on using it in Medallions,Tee Dees, and OK cubs (early nestalgia). What are your reccomendations? Should I go hotter or what. Thanks for your input.

    Scottl0413
    Portland, TN

    AMA881197

    #44495
    DAN BERRY
    Participant

    The 25% fuel that you described is about what Missile Mist was. Hotter won’t won’t make that much difference on the Babe Bee and like. All castor might be better, but probably not worth hassling over.
    Red Max fuel will custom blend anything you want and ship it to you, if you want to go that route.

    #44496
    Scott Lapraik
    Participant

    Dan, thanks for the input. The engines run very good on this so far. 😀 I’m about to finish a 1/2A Ramrod with a Medallion on it. Will see how that works.

    Scottl0413

    #44497
    DAN BERRY
    Participant

    The Medallion might benifit from extra nitro for competion purposes, which would , of course, be the reason for building the RamRod.
    Keep the castor, though.



    #44498
    JLorbiecki
    Participant

    Wow, i have to agree with Dan again….The reason for the castor is that if the motor gets hot, the synthetic will start to break down. The castor tho will keep lubricating at a high temp and save the engine. However, look out for the castor varnishing the liner and piston. If you notice a decrease in power, maybe a simple cleaning of the liner with 000 steel wool will get rid of the varnish and restore the engine to its past performance….

    FYI….At the WC we had to run their fuel which was 20% straight castor. We had to open up the needle almost half a turn. after returning, the needle returned to its normal position with us using the Klotz 100 oil…So, we had to burn more fuel for the engine to be happy with the straight castor…

    #44499
    DAN BERRY
    Participant

    Shoot, I just thoght iron pistons needed the castor.
    For the varnish removal, there is another method. Run about 20 seconds of Casey Hornbeck WindX 15P. That would be 65% nitro,15% propylene oxide and 20% Klotz. It will de-varnish the engine.

    #44500
    Scott Lapraik
    Participant

    Thanks, for all the input (data 😀 ) The medallion I am using hasn’t been fired up since 1970! I just finished the Ramrod and went out to try and start the engine. I was very happy how this little engine after sitting for 37 years took only a few minutes to get the VARNISH loosened up and the engine to run. Ran it for about a minute with a simi rich setting, loosened it up real good! Second time started right back up an leaned it out a little more and ran great with no hesitation. Let it cool off re-fueled, fired it up and leaned it out to flight speed, no hesitation and at a 15 second engine run ran great? 🙂 Can’t wait to get the Ramrod in the air and start triming!

    Scottl413
    Portland, TN

    #44501
    Ed Hardin
    Participant

    scottl043, I have sent you a PM, check you messages.
    Ed

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