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- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 8 months ago by Ed Hardin.
07/16/2007 at 5:45 pm #40667
Good day panel of experts! I have a question! Since I’ve been out of the sport for 38 years and just getting back into it. I used to just by cox fuel and didn’t think about the % of nitro, or any of the lubricants. Since you can’t buy the Cox fuel anymore I’ve been using Six 25% Nitro, 13% castor oil, and 12% synthetic oil. I am using this in Cox Baby Bees and plan on using it in Medallions,Tee Dees, and OK cubs (early nestalgia). What are your reccomendations? Should I go hotter or what. Thanks for your input.
AMA88119707/16/2007 at 11:18 pm #44495
The 25% fuel that you described is about what Missile Mist was. Hotter won’t won’t make that much difference on the Babe Bee and like. All castor might be better, but probably not worth hassling over.
Red Max fuel will custom blend anything you want and ship it to you, if you want to go that route.07/17/2007 at 12:33 pm #44496
Dan, thanks for the input. The engines run very good on this so far. 😀 I’m about to finish a 1/2A Ramrod with a Medallion on it. Will see how that works.
Scottl041307/17/2007 at 10:28 pm #44497
The Medallion might benifit from extra nitro for competion purposes, which would , of course, be the reason for building the RamRod.
Keep the castor, though.
07/20/2007 at 2:49 pm #44498JLorbieckiParticipant
Wow, i have to agree with Dan again….The reason for the castor is that if the motor gets hot, the synthetic will start to break down. The castor tho will keep lubricating at a high temp and save the engine. However, look out for the castor varnishing the liner and piston. If you notice a decrease in power, maybe a simple cleaning of the liner with 000 steel wool will get rid of the varnish and restore the engine to its past performance….
FYI….At the WC we had to run their fuel which was 20% straight castor. We had to open up the needle almost half a turn. after returning, the needle returned to its normal position with us using the Klotz 100 oil…So, we had to burn more fuel for the engine to be happy with the straight castor…07/23/2007 at 11:13 pm #44499
Shoot, I just thoght iron pistons needed the castor.
For the varnish removal, there is another method. Run about 20 seconds of Casey Hornbeck WindX 15P. That would be 65% nitro,15% propylene oxide and 20% Klotz. It will de-varnish the engine.07/24/2007 at 1:08 pm #44500
Thanks, for all the input (data 😀 ) The medallion I am using hasn’t been fired up since 1970! I just finished the Ramrod and went out to try and start the engine. I was very happy how this little engine after sitting for 37 years took only a few minutes to get the VARNISH loosened up and the engine to run. Ran it for about a minute with a simi rich setting, loosened it up real good! Second time started right back up an leaned it out a little more and ran great with no hesitation. Let it cool off re-fueled, fired it up and leaned it out to flight speed, no hesitation and at a 15 second engine run ran great? 🙂 Can’t wait to get the Ramrod in the air and start triming!
Portland, TN07/24/2007 at 1:51 pm #44501Ed HardinParticipant
scottl043, I have sent you a PM, check you messages.
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