Forum Replies Created
Thank you Alan for all the hard work you have done to get us up and running again. I was having withdraws without our site !
You’re very welcome. I do wish I could have restored all of the previous discussions. I’m really glad you’re using it and enjoying it!
Chuck emailed me with this question, My following answer may be of interest to others. IM
I’m rebuilding one of my old F1A models that uses 5 mm wing wires. Since I have no metric metal bushings to fit into the fuselage, that starts to create a problem. When I drill a 5 mm hole enlargement into a heavy-walled aluminum tubing, the hole is not coencentric from one end to the other. I’m told that is characteristic of this operation with twist drills sent through a pilot hole. Sometimes I get lucky with brass tubing and lots of lubricating oil to expand the hole from 3/16 to 5 mm (0.188 to 0.197″) without removing any brass (i.e, spinning the brass to a larger diameter, but that is hard on drill bits and leaves me with a bushing with OD that doesn’t match any drill bits that I have.
What do you do?
I / M&K don’t use any bushing. On a single wire wing. I simple drill the hole. I use to use a hard maple block in the fuselage but M&K use a birch like wood.I have not pulled a wire thru a fuselage– knock on wood. I have bought a set of reams which help get a nice fit.
On a 2 wire wing, I rarely get the two holes drilled that correctly position the wing incidence. I then carefully open the front hole. Put transparent tape over the holes and carefully cut out the holes. Wax the wing wires the right fuselage side. Space out the left wing with equal box about .38 inch. Position and secure the wing incidence were you want it. Now build a dam of modeling clay around the wires. Mix up a good laminating epoxy, put in some CF sanding (very fine) and pour into the fuselage / wire gap. After cure, ream the front hole bit by bit until I get the wing wiggler movement needed for smooth information.
I’ve also plugged holes with birch dowels and re-drilled and used the “liquid” shim method described above.
Here is the method I use for fitting the wing wire to the nosepod:
For a new nosepod, make sure you drill the hole through a little undersize, best on a drill press, and make sure you get the angle correct for the wing to pod fit.
Then I put in balsa blocks about 1/8″ on both sides of the wing rod that bridge the sides of the nosepod to provide forms for pouring in a slow setting epoxie, high strength type. I rub the wing rod with silicone grease, so it has a thin film, and insert it into the fuselage, so it sticks out about 3/8″ on one side, and hangs way out on the other side.
Mix your epoxie in a container that can also be used to pour into your forms. Mix the epoxie of course to the exact formula given, and cut some carbon fiber and mix it into the epoxie after a few minutes. The mix should then look very black.
Carefully pour the epoxie/carbon mix into the forms covering the wing rod about 1/8″. Let this cure and setup until absolutely hard. Then let it cure longer, to be sure.
Now you have a wing rod bonded into the fuselage. So to remove, apply some force to the rod with a pliers to twist the rod breaking the bond.
The rod can then be forceably removed, pushed out, and you have an absolutely perfect fit, and a very strong rod to fuselage structure.
This sounds like a big job, but it just takes more words to describe how to do it than it actually involves.
I don’t think a hardwood block glued in is adequate given the forces put on the wingrod during bunt launches.AnonymousInactive
Reposting information about the 2005 NATS informal Dawn Towline Glider Event:
Dawn Towline Glider Event, NATS, Wed., August 3, 6:00 AM
We had first talked about a Dawn Classic Glider Event to be held at the NATS.
I have since thought about broadening the event to promote more interest.
So here is what I am suggesting:
A so called one flight “fly off event” for any class of towline glider.
Classes will be separated by model type, Classic Glider, A-1, F1H, F1A, and Unlimited(whatever that is?). No attempts are allowed, just one official flight with one model type. Unlimited single flight time, timed with binoculars or chased to the ground.
So you may tow by any method for that class, and we will have a supposedly still air best time. Classic gliders will straight tow, and other categories can do anything they like, like circle and bunt.
There are no prizes, no entry fee, results will be posted by category, and also by overall lumped score.
So I will bring score cards, you show up at the Dawn Unlimited Rubber congregation site on Wednesday, August 3 before 6AM, we will head to the proper part of the field, and you must get your flight up between 6:15 and 6:30 AM. Make sure your towline reel is set up for standard 50 meter length and proper pull test requirements for the class of model you are flying.
Let’s find out what model type can get the best still air score??
If you have further additions, I am open to suggestions.
Please let me know if you plan to participate? email at: firstname.lastname@example.org
Let’s start a new event and tradition for towline gliders!!
CD John Lorbiecki has not raised any objections and looks forward to seeing some 6 minute early morning glider flights.
See you there!
Dave EdmonsonDON MYERSParticipant
The Approved Design list shows 2 versions of fuller’s Zoot Suit. The earlier
57″ span published in M.A.N. in ’53 being available on the NFFS Plans Service list. Does any one know of a source for the 61″ span version published in June ’54 RAF Flying Review? In the July issue there is mention that it is “George Fuller’s 1954 version of Britains’ top free-flight power design” Might one suspect the later non – Nostalgia era “Dixielander” would owe something to his previous designs? Any help, greatly appreciated.
Cheers(and thanks, Alan for getting us back on track) ddAnonymousInactive
Before the site was hacked, someone had asked about recomendations for binoculars. There is a huge price range but I am really happy with the ones that I have. 7x50mm Bushnell ‘Marine’ binoculars, Model #13-7500 Retail around $140. Here is the URL to an evaluation that I didn’t write but I believe is accurate. What ever you end up getting I would advise you to get one with the built in compass.
PS… Thanks Alan for getting the web site back up!AnonymousInactive
Great thing about the forum is seeing the differing ideas. In this case, I stated that the wood block in the fuselage is adequate to carry luanch loads– supporting evidence is this is the method that M&K, Stamov and I use and I don’t belive many pull harder.
Lee Hines had a model that used a blob of epoxy / chopped figer class (I believe it was FG because it was white in color). The block did crack causing eradic launches. Dave likely uses different / better epoxy and chopped fiber and the formed epoxy / chopped CF works for him.
Related noted to those that have old M&K models, Several years ago, they started using a rivet at the top and bottom of the alum piece the tow hook mounts to. The lower rivet can be seen. They stated this after a hot contest in Spain were they pulled two hooks off the side of the fuselage during launch. The cause is the room temp epoxy used softens / weakens in +100 F temps. I have drilled tapped countersink 2-56 to serve the same purpose. Good reason not to leave your models in your car at Lost Hills in July.
Amyother ideas comments out there?
Lost in the archives was a note regarding appropriate venturi sizes foe various engines. I don’t remember exactly how the discussion went but I could use the information if the respondents could answer again.
Are these being made by anybody? I know this site was hacked and never got a reply. Glad to see it is up and running and my thanks to all involved. This was my first big FF way back in early 60’s and my Space Hopper carried it 32 miles away on first flight. I forgot to set timer!! Well I have another Space Hopper and this time I will set timer and set the DT. Regards,Dan 😆 😆 😆AnonymousInactive
What would be a good model for this engine on nostalgia? I also have a Hunter 3.46 diesel that runs strong and would like to make something for it. The ED Hunter is a repro worked on by Areo-Dyne several years ago. Here in Tucson it is way to hot to fly unless you get up real early. So I will build until weather gets below 110.
If anybody in Tucson wants to relate to FF drop me a line. I would be glad to hear from you. Something about the smell of DT fuse early in the morning. Smells like Victory!! Regards,DanBill ShailorParticipant
Remember to download the Nats approved Moffett voucher before leaving for Muncie. Alan has kindly posted them on this site.
Get a plan for the 1/2A T-Bird. Enlarge to 400 sq in at a Kinkos. Contact me via my email address for mods.
Fit a reliable engine and DT timer. Recommend Texas Timers 2-Function with pinch off. I think it is also called the Max-III Timer.
Get a Walston or other type tracker and a good pair of binoculars.
Put gas in your chase bike, and enjoy.