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@dankar wrote:
What would be a good model for this engine on nostalgia? I also have a Hunter 3.46 diesel that runs strong and would like to make something for it. The ED Hunter is a repro worked on by Areo-Dyne several years ago. Here in Tucson it is way to hot to fly unless you get up real early. So I will build until weather gets below 110.
If anybody in Tucson wants to relate to FF drop me a line. I would be glad to hear from you. Something about the small of DT fuse early in the morning. Smells like Victory!! Regards,DanGood evening gentleman. I fly a scaled up version of Dan Sobala’s GEEF which has a 420 SQ IN wing. The OS .15 Mk III pulls it up very strongly. Out of the last 8 flight’s, only one was not a max (cat II). I have also flown a 450 SQ IN hoosier hotshot without any difficulty. Best of luck… George
Does anyone has experience using this material on F1B’s?
It’s 1/2 oz per square yard.
Do you feel it could be better then polyspan?
Thanks a lotI’ve just had a note from Kathleen Dunn – Katmar Balsa Products – that the mill is offering her a supply of contest grade balsa sheets in 24″ lengths. She is seeking guidance as to whether there would be a demand for this stock before comitting herself to an order.
My view is that it would be just as useful for rib stock, etc. as the customary 36″ lengths but your comments would be appreciated – please address them direct to KDunn1656@aol.com.
At this time she also has some stocks of 36″ contest grade timber in various sizes – but insufficient to make the preparation of a comprehensive stock/price list feasible; if you have any requirements, please check for availability and pricing.
There are also substantial stocks of regular grade balsa available; Katmar is situated in California but ships worldwide.
Hi Crew, I’m back—was gossie, but it would not let me on, so now i’m just ‘gos’.
Zoot Suit—-Contact Peter <a href="mailto:Lloyd
info@pelaero.com.au”>Lloyd
info@pelaero.com.ault’s a popular vintage model in OZ and flys well using from a 1.49 diesel to a 2.5 glo
Peter has a good one with a Green head Torp.Peter also has lots of ‘goodies’ on his web site—-check it out. 😀
Also thanks from OZ.
Not sure what went wrong, but you all went ‘pear shape’ and have only just found you, and had to change from ‘gossie’ to ‘gos’.
Keep up the good work. 😀
Hi guys
Tim Johnson of the Minneapolis Model Aero Club was very active in Nos Gas events. He passed away in November last year.
I will have his complete stock of engines at the NATS swap meet for sale.
If anyone is interested in a list prior to the NATS, send me an email:
david@edmonson.wsUsually the F1Bs need some ballast to get them up to minimum weight. I think the light weight rip stop nylon material would be ideal for maybe center panels.
I have found this information about different covering materials weights.
Beying so used as Micafilm is, I’m surprised that the colour one is heavier then Icarex.
Any comments?Covering gm/m²
Polimicro 1.3
2micron clear mylar 2.2
2 micron aluminised mylar 2.6
.012 condenser paper 3.7
4micron aluminised mylar 6.8
5 micron clear mylar 7.0
5 micron Microlite 10.0
Lt. Silkspan 12.0
Jap tissue (Lite Flite) 12.0
Litefilm/Solite 20.0
Micafilm clear 22.0
Airspan 24.0
Polyspan 25.0
Litespan 28.0
Coverlite 28.0
Micafilm colour 35.0
Fibafilm 40.0
Solarfilm 50.0
Monokote transparent 57.0
Solarspan 60.0
Solarkote 65.0
Solarcover 65.0
Monokote solid 75.0
Solartex 80.0
Glosstex 120.0Good information!
I think the Icarex 31 is 31 grams per square meter. I still prefer Polyspan for wings. Easily patched and if painted using FAI Supply’s dye, no weight gain by adding colors.What really matters is the weight of the covering after it is installed. That finished weight includes the adhesive and in case of the Polyspan a big percentage is for the dope. These are my net weights (1st number) and the total weight (2nd number) in g/m2.
Clear Micafilm 25 30
Polyspan 23 40
Icarex (1/2 oz) 36 41
Clear Mylar (1/4 mil) 8 11
Clear Mylar (1/2 mil) 15 18Any way to get plugs for this engine?
Great Information Peter,
So it seems that Mylar will be a good option, being waterproof and very resistant.
Any special tricks to cover with it?Pedro,
To adhere Mylar to the structure I use Velcro Adhesive. I put a small blob of this clear contact cement in a small mixing cup and thin it with M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and brush it onto the structure. Another good adhesive available in Europe is Pattex Transparent made by Henkel – this will yellow a bit after some time. Use a small sealing or a trim iron to adhere the mylar. Use the iron to shrink. Mylar will shrink quite a bit – the clear more than the aluminized. Your structure has to be strong or you have to be very careful when applying heat. These adhesives are also great for covering with Micafilm and Icarex. Icarex by the way is the most puncture proof covering material.
Peter
Presently there are 2 AMA Rule Proposals before the Contest Board to change the present Builder of the Model rule. These proposals can be read on the AMA webs site http://www.modelaircraft.org/Comp/2007Proposals/OutdoorFreeFlight.htm. Proposal OFF-07-1 is by Bob Mattes, and Proposal OFF-07-2 by James Juhl.
My personal feeling is that the present BOM rule is an anachronism that has outlived the present.
Peter
